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Skin 101 |
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The correct identification of skin types and conditions is the key for successfully selecting effective cosmetic products. Although there are as many subtle vitiation to skin types and conditions as there are human beings, certain prevalent characteristics allows us to group skin types into three classifications and skin conditions into another six. In most cases, individuals have combination of skin types plus one or more skin conditions. Products are generally formulated to address specific conditions.
This page is designed to help relate skin requirements to the cosmetic ingredients most beneficial to an individual's skin. It is also useful for indentifying why a given product may or may not provide expected results, and for identifying potential negative reactions.
SKIN TYPES:
Skin Types are hereditary and are the result of oil glands functioning. Skin Types can be classified into three categories: normal, oily and dry. In most cases, individuals have a combination of skin types such as an oily T-zone (around eyes and nose) and normal cheeks. Of course, these skin types occur in varying degrees, such as very oily, or very dry; slightly oily or slightly dry.
The notion that one person's skin can be oily and dry is more commonly confusion in concept than a reality. For example, when people describe the skin as having been oily and all of a sudden being dry, they are referring to an oily skin type that is losing moisture because or ever drying. This is usually caused by excessive use of astringents, soaps, and/or scrubs in an attempt to reduce the amount of oil secretion. While the skin is an oily type, this dryness should be considered a skin condition and is properly referred to as dehydration, a lack of water moisture rather than oil.
In general, there seems to be such an obsession with oiliness that people forget about moisture. To hear, "I don't need a moisturizer, my skin is oily" is quite common. It is important to remember that the skin has oil and water, and that both are important for its beauty and retarding the aging process.
DRY SKIN
Dry Skin develops as a result of sebaceous gland underactivity. Skin dryness, though hereditary like skin oiliness, also results from the aging process. As all body activities slow down, oil gland activity slows as well. Dry skin tends to be dehydrated. Its lack of oil diminishes its ability to retain moisture since oil in the skin acts as a natural barrier against moisture loss. Dry skin is characterized as very fine, overly delicate, and thin. Lack of sufficient oil secretion deprives the skin of sufficient "glue" to retain cells in the corneum layer. As a result, dry skin has fewer cells in the corneum layer than oily skin. In dry skin, pores are almost visible. The skin also tends to wrinkle easily and s often filled with tiny superficial lines.
Dry skin problems are aggravated by exposure to the sun, wind and heat. Improper skin care, such as excessive lubrication and lack or protection against moisture loss, especially during the day, further exacerbates this problem.
Care for dry skin should include daytime protections using products containing sealant such as silicone or collagen-based products. These products from a layer on the surface of the skin and reduce moisture loss. In addition, a program of good skin nourishment and lubrication with appropriate night creams is highly recommended. The use of nourishing, hydrating masks is also advisable for dry skin. Appropriate ingredients for dry skin can include, but not limited to, Vitamin E (usually listed as tocopherol), Ajidew. ginseng. dandelion extract, avocado oil, macadamia nut oil, and some of the newest ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and mucopolysaccharides.
NORMAL SKIN
Normal skin has perfect hydration, muscle tone, and resilience produced by moisture and the adipose tissues. There is strong biological activity at the basal layer, blood circulation is active, and the metabolism is balanced. Normal skin looks soft, moist, plump, and dewy, and has a healthy glow and color. The corneum layer shows a fine texture, and there are no visible wrinkles, fine lines, or open pores.
The best example of normal skin is that of children, from birth usually until puberty. Oil glands functioning at a normal rate of secretion are also seen in mature individuals who once had oily skin. With age, the rate of oil gland secretion slows down and becomes normal. However, the normal skin found in this second case varies from the normal skin of youth insofar as there is no strong biological activity at the basal layer and, in most cases, suppleness and color have deteriorated.
Aging is the primary factor that deteriorates normal skin. Other factors include insufficient water intake and an inadequate diet. Tea, coffee, and sodas do not makeup up for water because the body processes them differently. Food devoid of vitamins, enzymes, and amino acids does not provide the cells with the nourishment necessary for cellular reproduction and growth. Improper skin care such as lack of cleansing is quite prevalent in children and teenagers due to lack of skin care awareness. The use of harsh soaps and scrubs, makeup, climate, and environment contribute to the deterioration of normal skin. Sun exposure and exposure to the elements without protective dries, dehydrates, and ages the skin.
Normal Skin requires proper cleansing, morning and evening. The consistent use of protective moisturizers during the day to prevent moisture loss and hydrating creams at night is essential. An occasional exfoliation is also beneficial. Sun protection is extremely important, even for children. Children should not be allowed on the beach without a proper sunscreen or in the snow without a good protective cream.
OILY SKIN
Oily Skin is a hereditary condition that develops due to overactive sebaceous glands. This activity is controlled by the androgen, or masculine, hormone. Oily skin can be recognized by its shiny, thick and firm appearance. Pores look enlarged, usually due to oil entrapped in the pilosebaceous follicle. Enlarged pores become aggravated with a dehydrated condition. An oily complexion tends to look dirty and neglected, occasionally with blemishes on the chin or the forehead area, and feels oily to the touch.
Hot and Humid climates tend to exacerbate oil gland secretion, making the skin more oily. Oily skin problems can be aggravated by the misuse of skin care products and the tendency to dry the skin either through the use of harsh soaps, or the excessive use of astringents or scrubs. Overstimulation of skin function through scrubbing or stimulating massage should be avoided.
Exfoliating products, such as alpha hydroxyacids (AHAs) and exfoliating enzymes help improve the look and texture of oily skin by reducing hyperkeratosis. Products with active substances, including botanicals, that may help regulate or reduce oil gland secretions, are also appropriate. These could include, but not limited to, royal jelly, vitamin F, and rosemary. Mint and thyme act as solvent on the fats with an added action on the sebaceous glands.
Care requires thorough yet gentle cleansing morning and evening. Daytime protective moisturizers will help the skin maintain its suppleness and moisture. Evening creams should help regulate oil gland secretion. It is more important to keep oily skin clean and hydrated with appropriate cleansing and care. AHA exfoliators and weekly use of enzyme peels is highly recommended. When properly cared for, this is preferred skin type since it delays the wrinkle process.
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Skin's Physiology |
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To fully understand Glycolic Acid's unique ability to clarify problem-prone skin, balance uneven skin tones and reduce the appearance of fine lines, we need to review the physiology of the skin.
The skin is composed of three main layers: the subcutaneous, the dermis and the epidermis. The epidermal layer is responsible for the appearance, color, suppleness, texture and health of the skin. This layer is further subdivided into the following five layers.
Basal Layer: The deepest layer of the epidermis is known as the basal layer. It is within this layer that skin cells reproduce or subdivided through mitosis ( a process by which a cell divides and reproduces into cells identical to each other and to the mother cell). After the cell divides, one cell remains in the basal layer, while the other begins to migrate up through the epidermis.
Stratum Spinosum: The next layer is called the stratum spinosum. In this layer, the cellular metabolism of the upwardly migrating cells begins to change. Keratin (the protein found in hair and nails) is produced within the cell, forming large fibres, which fill the cell interior.
Stratum Granulosum: The stratum granulosum is the granular layer where the cell begins to die. At this point, the cell is almost completely filled with keratin fibres and with lamellar granular bodies (small pocket of lipids). These lamellar bodies move to the surface of the cell where their lipids are released to the exterior of the cell. The result is a flat, hard cell surrounded by lipids.
Stratum Lucidum: The stratum lucidum is a clear layer, which consists of ordered cells surrounded by lipids. This ordered structure allows some light to pass through giving the layer a translucent appearance. The stratum lucidum is only present where there are no hair follicles, such as the palms of the hands.
Stratum Corneum: As flat, dead, hardened cells reach the stratum corneum, they become tighly packed in a "brick and mortar" pattern. However, as cells reach the surface of the stratum corneum this ordered pattern is often disrupted. Thus, the stratum corneum is known as the "horny layer", due to the disorganized build up of the tightly packed cells which have a horny appearance when viewed under a microscope. Cells in this layer, known as corneocytes, are constantly being shed as newer cells rise to the surface, a process called desquamation.
Within the stratum corneum, the keratinized cells are glued together by what is commonly referred to as "cellular cement". This "cement" is primarily made of ceramides and other lipids.
The stratum corneum acts as a barrier against moisture loss. The ordered brick and mortar structure orevents an excessive amount of moisture from crossing the stratum corneum. However, if this structure is disrupted, eg, by lipid removal caused by detergents or harsh soaps, excessive moisture loss and skin dehydration can result.
This process from subdivision to desquamation takes about two weeks in a young person and about 37 days in individuals over the age of 50. |
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